In fine Compagnie

An insider’s look at the making of a heritage hotel


February 4, 1673 is an important date in the history of Pondicherry. On that day, the French arrived, and went on to rule Pondicherry for the most part till 1954.

When Dimitri Klein arrived in Pondicherry from Paris five years ago, it was love at first sight. Having freshly sold a very sucessful advertising agency in Paris that he created from scratch to the Omnicom Group, Dimitri was looking for a new challenge. Enter Dilip Kapur, leather baron, and owner of Hidesign. Together, they concluded that Pondicherry deserved a hotel befitting its unique heritage.

After scouting for the perfect location, the partners settled on the 18th century villa of the 'Maire' (Mayor) of Pondicherry. Located in the heart of the old White French quarter at 5, Rue De La Caserne, the villa was in a state of advanced dilapidation, and would require full scale restoration. Undaunted by the challenge, Dimitri roped in architect Eric Locicero, who taught at Le Villette (School of Architecture), Paris. Eric sent across a talented young architect named Niels Schoenfelder who was training with Eric, to spearhead the project.

In the meantime, the original bungalow of Governor Dupleix collapsed completely. The duo managed to save about 44 columns and 7 ceiling panels of exquisite Franco-Indian carved woodwork from the demolished house of Dupleix. A team of 25 carpenters were put together to work on the restoration. Restoring each of these panels entailed almost 300 hours of work. In some cases, parts were missing. Two dedicated restoration carpenters worked dedicatedly to finish and age such missing parts.

Niels wanted to refinish the walls with the original 'Chettinad Egg Plaster', a mixture of egg white, powdered sea shells and yoghurt. Dimitri discovered that it was almost a lost art. He connected with Visalakshi Ramaswamy in the town of Chettinad. Together, they facilitated a workshop for the dying art of Chettinad egg plaster in Kanadukathan, Chettinad. Masons from all across India participated. The Master craftsman, 90 years of age, came down to Pondicherry for one month to lay the egg plaster foundation. Each of the rooms painstakingly incorporated the Chettinad egg plaster, keeping the walls cool, and also retaining an almost marble-like sheen to walls.

Each of the rooms have been designed with meticulous detail, and subtle sensitivity by Niels Schoenfelder. The level of detailing is astonishing, as is the ingenuity of material usage. The woodwork is teak only, polished specially with linseed oil to replicate a period setting. The toilets, again ingeniously designed, use glass mosaic tiling and red oxide flooring. Interestingly, each room is designed differently, almost thematically, and draws from a range of period colonial styles. Much of the furniture has been created using period designs, and aged. Particularly noteworthy are the embroidery designs provided by Vastra Kala, Chennai-based heritage furnishings outfit. After 4 years of restoration work, Le Dupleix opened in late July 2004.

All rooms are equipped with contemporary features such as air conditioning, internet connectivity, bathtub, minibar, tea/coffee maker and so on. Each room also has a snug family room with a television. One can keep the veranda doors open throughout the day and experience great scenic beauty. If you fancy a nice evening al fresco, climbing the planked staircase with its tiny waterfalls will bring you to the sit out. The lobby features a fantastic fountain sculpture by Francois Weil, sculptor-in-residence at AIR (artists in residence), Pondicherry.

Eventually, you are likely to step down to the Governor's Lounge, the gourmet restaurant at the garden serving a host of Continental, French & Indian specialties. The cuisine, like everything else about Le Dupleix, lives up to its reputation. The restaurant sports a bar alongside, which serves international wine and a wide array of cocktails. And if you’re the coffee-drinking sort, choose from a range of award winning coffees carefully selected from plantations in the Nilgiris.

Classic French design, genuine hospitality, distinctive music and splendid food with the seashore just a few minutes away, Le Dupleix is a remarkable achievement, a chic designer hotel with the charisma of a forgotten era.

Historical Caption (Set in inset box, preferably with a picture of Dupleix as supplied)

Joseph François Dupleix (1697–1763), came to India in 1721 as an officer of the French East India Company. In 1731 he was appointed governor of Chandannagar, where he made a considerable fortune, and in 1742 he became governor of Pondichéry. On the 17th of April 1741, he married Jeanne Albert, widow of Jacques Vincent, ex-adviser to the Superior Council of the Compagnie des Inde, the French East India company.

Born of a French father and an Indo-Portuguese mother, Madame Dupleix was of Hindu faith. Nicknamed “la Begum,” she played an important role in Pondicherry’s history, heavily influencing her husband’s political decisions. Born in Pondicherry, she spoke several languages (including Tamil) fluently, and is often described by historians as a strong- headed woman. She mothered eleven children, and, with her custom-made silks and “Indiennes,” introduced a new fashion at the court of the governor.

When the War of the Austrian Succession brought the French and British East India companies into conflict, Dupleix supervised the capture of Madras (1746) and successfully defended Pondichéry. In Europe, Louis XV signed the Aix-La-Chapelle treaty, which returned a number of territories (including Madras) to their former colonizers. But in Pondicherry, Dupleix kept up the conquests, gaining more and more territory for the French. Dupleix then formed a vast project for establishing French supremacy in India. Intervening in native politics, intrigues, and warfare, he controlled the Carnatic and nearly the entire Deccan by 1751. Soon, however, the British began to regain ground under the leadership of Robert Clive, and the French government, anxious to avoid war and uninformed of Dupleix's grandiose schemes, recalled the governor in 1754. With Dupleix, the last hope of a French empire in India vanished. He ended his days in poverty and neglect.